Apparatus for and method of folding and stitching neckties



J. F. BAKER ETAL APPARATUS FOR METHOD OF FOLDING AND STITCRING NECKTIES Filed June 28, 194:5

4 Sheets-Sheet 1' March 26, 1946. KER ETAL, 2,397,081

APPARATUS FOR AND METHOD OF FOLDING AND STITOHING NECKTIES Filed Jun e 28, 1943 4 sheets-sheet 2 u il 10 I o H; p 4 b 4 W 2 2/ 22 Marches) 1946. BAKER ETAL 2,397,081

APPARATUS FOR AND METHOD OF FOLDING AND STITCHING NECKIIES Filed June 28, 1943 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Ill/[11111111.

March 26, 1946. J. F. BAKER ETAL 2,397,031v

APPARATUS FOR- AND METHOD OF FOLDING AND STITCHING NECKTIES Filed 31111628, 194: 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 a; 1m zjaahm Patented Mar. 26, 1946 APPARATUS FOR AND METHOD OF FOLDING AND STITCHING NECKTIES James F. Baker, Troy, and Arthur E. La Mora, Cohocs, N. Y., assignors to Cluett, Peabody & (30., Inc., Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application June 28, 1943, Serial No. 492,520

6 Claims.

This invention pertains to the manufacture of four-'in-hand neckties. and relates more particularly to a novel method of and apparatus for folding and stitching such ties.

In accordance with one customary practice, the necktie blank is folded wrong side out to form two superposed plies and at widely spaced intervals, located along a line located somewhere between the line of fold and the free edges of the plies, the plies are united by tacking stitches. For instances, the plies may be thus united at nine points substantially equidistant apart and disposed along a line approximately half-way between the free edges and the fold. After this tacking operation the tie is turned right side out.

This folding and sewing operation may be performed by hand but requires a considerable degree of skill on the part of the operator in order that the tie may be folded properly and uniformly, and so that when turned it will be of accurate width, smooth and with the stitches fully concealed. To assist in these operations of folding and sewing, various mechanisms have heretofore been proposed, and while such prior devices are of assistance in making a more uniform product, they are unduly complicated and expensive and requir skill in their use and do not adequately speed up production.

The present invention has for its object the provision of a novel method of and apparatus for use in folding and stiching neckties of the class described. more particularly to provide a method whereby the operations of folding and stitching are greatly expedited as compared with prior practice but with assurance of equally good or better result and which can be carried out by relatively unskilled labor; to provide means whereby the folded tie may be transferred to the stitching mechanism without danger of disarrangement; to provide mechanism such that tacking stitches may be formed at a series of spaced points imultaneously thereby materially reducing the tim necessary for stitching; to provide novel means for transferring the folded tie to the stitching mechanism such that each tie is delivered individually and immediately after folding to the stitching mechanism; to provide a simple form of holder for the folded tie; to provide simple control for the stitching mechanism, and in general to furnish novel and efiicient mean and method of. accomplishing the desired result. Other and further objects and advantages 0! the invention will be pointed out in the following more. detailed. description and by reference to the accompanying drawings wherein:

Fig. 1 is a plan view. more or less diagrammatic in character, illustrating the associated foldingand stitching mechanism in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the mechanism of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an end elevation, to larger scale, or the mechanism shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a. fragmentary edge elevation of an attachment to the feed slide of one of the sewing mechanisms;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary plan view oi the folding mechanism showing a necktie blank, of the kind employed in making a four-fold liningless tie. arranged in preparation for the folding operation;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary section to large scale substantially on the line 5'.i of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a plan view similar to Fig. 4 but showing the initial folding operation completed;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 5 (being a section on the line 1-1 of Fig. 6), indicating the completion of the second step of the folding operation;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 7 but showing the folding operation completed and the folded tie blank in the holder;

Fig. 9 is a. plan view of a simple form of holder for the necktie blank;

Fig. 10 is a section, to larger scale, substantially on the line Ill-10 of Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. 9 but ing a modified form of holder;

Fig. 12 is a plan view of a necktie blank after it has been folded and sewed but before turning;

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary plan view of the'tie blank, to larger scale. showing the tacking stitches extending transversely of the tie; and

Fig, 14 is a view similar to Fig. 13 but showing the tacking stitches extending lengthwise of the tie.

Referring to the drawings, the numeral l designates a suitable bench upon which is mounted an elongate support 2 which carries various parts 01' the apparatus. This support may be made of any suitable material, for example plywood or metal, and at one end portion carries the folding means within the "folding zone" designated F, Fig. 1, while at its opposite end there are arranged stitch-forming mechanisms within the stitching zone" designated S, Fig. 1.

' The support 2 is provided with a horizontal surface 3 upon which the necktie blank rests during folding and sewing. The support is also furnished with a downwardly inclined forward surface 4 (Fig. 3) upon which are located guide illustrat ways for the necktie blank holder. As indicated in Figs. 1 and 3, a guide member 5 extends from the folding zone into the stitching zone, said guide member being shaped to provide the guideway or slot 6 at its upper edge. A second guide 1 extends from the stitching zone into the folding zone and is shaped to provide the guideway or slot 8. The guide members 5 and i are so disposed that the parallel slots 6 and 8 are spaced sufliciently to permit a tie blank holder to move along the guideway 8 without interference with a. holder moving, for example, in the opposite direction along the guide slot 6.

Within the stitching zone S there is arranged a plurality of stitch-forming mechanisms 8. The number of the stitch-forming mechanisms is an aliquot part of the entire number of stitches or groups of stitches to be formed in the necktie blank. As here shown, three such stitchforrning mechanisms are provided, and the tie blank is provided with 9 tacking stitches or groups of stitches. These stitch-forming mechanisms '9 may be of any suitable commercial type, those here chosen being button sewing machines of a well known make, slightly modified for'th'e purpose of the present invention. Each of these machines comprises a sewing needle in together with the necessar adjunctive features (not here shown in detail) for making stitches, and each machine comprises a presser foot H and a feed slide l2. Each machine is provided with a suitable drive clutch (not shown in detail); each such clutch being controlled by a chain l3 (Fig. 3)..

The lower ends of these several chains are secured respectively to the upper ends of tension springs id whose lower ends ar all attached to a single elongate rigid member l5 (Figs. 2 and 3) which is hinged at its rear edge at 16 so that its forward edge may swing up and down. A single chain ll connects the forward edge of this swinging plate to a treadle 48 so that by depression of this single treadle all of the stitch-forming mechanisms may be started at the same instunt. The several presser feet of the machines are connected to a lifting mechanism which is actuated by a chain I9 connected to a treadle 20 so that by depression of th treadieiil the presser feet may all be lifted at the same time.

In accordance with the resent invention, the feed dogs are removed from the several machines and replaced by thin, smooth surfaced fiat bars 2| connected to the respective feed slides I! so that the 'bars 21 vibrate from front to rear during stitch formation. The bars 2! of the right and left-hand machines of the group are furnished with upwardly directed hooks 22, Figs. 1 and 3*, designed to enga e a tie blank holder, hereinafter described, and to vibrate the'holder back and forth during the formation of the tacking stitches. The bar 2! of the central machine need not be provided with such a hook unless desired.

Within the folding zone F the upper surface of the support 2 is furnished with an elevated portion 2! Gigs. 5, I and 8) upon which is mounted a, series of gauge members 2'4 (Figs. 1, 4 and 6) designed to engage the rear edge B of the necktie blank in order to position the blank properly for folding. Upon this elevated surface 23 two brackets are mounted carrying hinges 25 to which is secured the presser member 26. This presser member is of thin, stiff sheet material. for examie, thin metai, and is or a length corresponding to the necktie blank and has a forward edge 21 (fig. 1) of curved contour corresponding to thatof the fold to be formed. in the necktie blank. Since this member 26 is necessarily of thin material, it is preferred to stifien it at its rear part by means 01 an elongate angle member 28. To this angle member is attached one end of a chain 29 which passes over a pulley 30 and then down below the bench l to a treadle 3! whereby the presser 26 may be swung upwardly about the hinges 25.

Th apparatus comprises two or more (preferabl a plurality) holders 32 (Figs. 9 and 10) designed to partake in the blank folding operation and to hold the folded blank during stitching. These holders may be made of any suitable material, but it has been found that sheet material formed from compressed fiber, for example, that known to the trade as "Prestwood" is desirable for the purpos since it is possible to make a holder very easily from such material at a low cost, and since a holder so made is sufiiciently still, although light .in weight, to perform the desired function. As illustrated more par-' ticularly in Fig. 9, this holder has the substantially straight rear edge 33, the parallel and edges 34 and 35, and the forward edge 36 which is curved to conform to the curvature of the fold to be made in the necktie blank. This curved forward edge 35 is provided with an inwardly directed slot 31. Conveniently, this slotmay be a saw kerf and is of a depth inwardly of the edge 36 which may approximate, for example, from to the width of the neck band portion of the folded blank. By forming this slot as a saw kerf, its inner surfaces or walls are left somewhat rough and thus help frictionally tohold the necktie material which is forced into the slot.

Preferably the slot is of a width approximat ing the normal uncompressed thickness of two plies of the necktie fabric, and preferably the slot flares at its outer end, forming smoothly rounded or'beveled entrance surfaces at 3B and 39.

The under side of the holder 32 is provided with an elongate slot id for engagement by the hooks 22 of the sewing mechanisms, as above described.

If the roughness resultant from the formation of the slot 3! as a saw keri is not suficierrt for the purpose, it is contemplated that the holder .32 may be made asshown inFis. 11. In this holder one or both walls of the slot 33 is provided with a lining of friction material 31, for example, a textile pile fabric, sandpaper. or the like.

The support 2 within the folding zone I" is preferably provided with an elongatefrontsitop member 23* to assist in positioning the holder preparatory to the folding operation, and is likewise furnished wth a guide member 28" for engagement with the end edge 35 of the holder.

In preparation for performing the folding operation, the presser 25 is raised by depression of the treadle 31 substantially to the'position shown in Fig. '8. A holder 32 is then placed in'the position shown in Figs. 5 or 8 with its rear edge resting against the stop 23, and a necktie blank 33 (whose ends have previously been bound) is laid face upward upon the surface 23 of the sum brt with its rear edge 3' contacting auges II, and so as to overlie the upper surface of the holder 12. The presser 25 isnowsmoved down upon themar portion of the blank B and when it has reached a substantially horizontal position, the operator pushes the holder 32 rearwardly so that its beveled suriace3ii ensases the necktie material and pushes the latter rearwardly abuts the ease 1-! of the presser 28. This results in forming a fold of the material within the slot 81 of the holder and forces the folded material deeply into the slot, this position of the parts being shown in Fig. 7. The forward edge portion of the necktie blank may be assisted in this turning rearwardly by the left-hand of the operator while the holder 32 is being moved rearwardly. While the parts are in the position of Fig. 7, the operator seizes the holder 32 and draws it forwardly until it again reaches the stop 23, but since the inner surfaces of the slot 31 are rough, while the surfaces of the presser are smooth, the folded blank is drawn oil of the presser 26 and remains with its fold firmly held in the slot 81 of the holder. The operator now takes the holder with the folded blank therein and placing the rear edge of the holder 32 in the guideway 6 pushes the holder over toward the stitching zone. If it be assumed that a necktie has just been stitched at the stitching zone and removed from the holder, an empty holder will, at a proximately the same time; be placed by the stitching operator in the guide slot 8 and moved by the operator toward the folding zone in readiness for a subseouent folding operation. The holder supplied with t e fo ded tie is moved along the'guide slot 8 into the stitching zone and until it engages a stop member P, Fig. l. The stitching operator depresses the treadle 20 so as to raise the several presser feet, and taking the holder out of the slot 6 disposes it in the position shown in Fig. 3 with the free edge portions of the folded tie in proper position beneath the presser feet of the several machines. The presser feet are then permitted to descend and the o erator depresses the treadle It so as to start all of the several ma chines into operation at the same instant. The needles descend and form the first stitch and then as they rise out of t e work, the hooks 22 pull the holder rearwardlv together with the necktie material so that when the needles again descend. they enter t e fabric at a point forwardly of the point at which they first entered, the repetition of this operation resulting in the formation of bar-tvpe stitches, such as illustrated in Fig. 12. extend ng transversel of the width of the fabric. After these stitches or a group of such stitches has thus simultaneously been formed at the several points S, Fig. 12, the operator again raises the presser feet and moves the holder to the left a proper distance, then allows the presser feet to descend and again starts the machine to form stitches at the points S, Fig. 12. The presser feet are then again raised and the operation repeated to form stitches at the points S.

It will be noted that by thus simultaneously forming stitches at a plurality of points, the number of operations necessary to bar-stitch the tie is materially reduced, in this instance 34; of the usual number of operations being all that is necessary.

Having thus formed all the requisite tacking stitches, the operator removes the holder from the hooks 22 and pulls the stitched tie out of the holder, the tie now being in readiness for the turning operation. The empt holder is placed in the groove 8 and slid back toward the folding zone where a folding operation has been going on simultaneously with the stitching operation. It has been found in practice that an operator can perform the stitching operation by the use of three stitching mechanisms at approximately the same speed that another operator in the folding zone can properly fold a blank. Thus, the operations of folding and stitching are carried on substantially without intermission, the tie proceeding from the folding zone along a path parallel to its length, and when it reaches the stitching zone, moves intermittently along a similar path so that the amount of necessary handling of the tie material is reduced to a minimum.

The tie thus above described would be a fourfold, liningless tie, but it is contemplated that a tie provided with a lining may be made in sub stantially the same manner, the lining being stitched to the blank prior to the folding operation.

When the tacking stitches extend transversely, as shown in Fig. 12, it may sometimes happen that under sufficient transverse tension such stitches may show in the completed tie. To avoid this it may be preferred to form the tacking stitches as shown at S and S", Fig. 14, so that they extend lengthwise of the tie. To accomplish this it is only necessary to change the cams which form a standard part of the equipment of such button machines as those above described, so that the feed foot of the machine will move lengthwise of the tie. With such an arrangement the stitches extend lengthwise of the tie instead of transversely.

While a desirable embodiment of the invention has herein been disclosed by way of example, it is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited to this precise embodiment of means but is broadly inclusive of all equivalents and modifications which fall within the terms of the appended claims.

We claim:

1. Apparatus of the class described comprising an elongate rigid sup ort having a. substantially horizontal upper surface and a downwardly inclined forward surface, folding means disposed upon the horizontal surface adjacent to one end of the support, stitching means disposed upon the horizontal surface adjacent to the opposite end of the support. a pair of elongate guides mounted upon the inclined forward surface of the support, and rigid elongate tie holders each designed to cooperate with the folding means to fold and receive a folded tie and to move along one of the guides from the folding to the stitching means, and to return empty along the other guide to the folding means, the guides and holders being so arranged as to permit holders to pass in opposite directions without interference.

2. Apparatus of the class described comprising a support having mounted thereon a plurality of stitch-forming mechanisms, said support having a surface for the reception of a tie blank holder, an elongate tie blank holder operative to receive and to hold the fold of a folded tie blank, the holder having an elongate slot therein, and two at least of the stitch-forming mechanisms each including a hook element releasably engageable with the slot in the holder and operative during the formation of stitches to vibrate the holder transversely of its length.

3. Apparatus of the class described comprising a support having mounted thereon a row of spaced stitch-forming mechanisms, said support having a surface for the reception of a tie blank holder, an elongate tie blank holder operative to receive and to hold the fold of a folded tie blank. the two endmost of said stitch-forming mechanisms at least, each including a vibratory work feed element provided with a hook and the holder being shaped for detachable engagement with said hooks so as to be vibrated by the stitch-forming mechanisms amt means onezsttwe stmultamewslx tastop amt to start the mun-a1 amen-mm: sms: thereby conmmitmrtlzr to form stitches! at spmeedz points lengthwise of the tie blank canted by the holder.

4, Apgamtus for folding and. setting a four-mhand necktie (summarising an elongatesupport having mounted thereon tie-foldinz means, the sapwt alse carrying, at a point spaced from the fuming: a plurality at spaced stitch-tormlng' mecmmsms; in number an aliquot part at thenumber at stitches to be formeoi m the necktie, means for starting and stopping the setem stitch-forming mechanisms simultaneously,

, a from the vicinity of the foldins: means to the stitch-forming mechanism, a. tie homer t'or mcetvmg: and holding a ioldecl tle bleak. said: holder being constructed; and arranged. to cooperate with the. towing. means in foldin the tie. the stitch-forming means including a utbra holder actuator, and. the; holder hearing: an element cooperable with said actuator whereby the: holster with a the mounted therein, after being moved lengltudlnally' from the foldim post-tinntn the stitching position, may he vibratesl transversely of its length while the stitches are being formed.

a as-max 3.. meme a! making a mur-m-hand necktie whlsh compdsesas steps providing a. fabric bleak. hiding the blank slang a longitudinal line to team impel-poses piles, advancing the folded tie l'tudzlnally mm a stitchctng some, causing the ts vibrate bodily in a transverse dlreetlan while in the path of. a sewlm machine neefile thereby te form bar type stitches, agale moving the tie lengthwise to bring ancther point thereof into the path. of the needle, and vibrating the tie transversely ta form bar stitches at the latter point.

e. Method ef making a fcm-ln-hamd necktie which eessprises as steps providing a fabric blank, field-mg the blank along a longitudinal line ta form superpesed phes, advancing the folded tie longitudinally into a stitching zone wherein a plurality of sewing machine needles, spaee lan gltudinally ef the ties are simlfltaneously acting to 10m stitches, bodily vibrating the tie in a transverse direction whereby each needle terms bar type stitches extending transversely ot the tie, and again moving the the lengthwise whereby the needles are caused to form stitches at points spaced from these first formed.

JAMES F; BAKER. ARTHUR E. LA MQRA. 

